Snowy Days, Onsen Nights

Our first trip to Japan began in the heart of winter, and Hokkaidō welcomed us like a snowy dream. Mountains blanketed in pristine powder, pine trees dusted with frost, and onsen steam curling up into the crisp, clean air—it was pure winter magic.

This was the kickoff to a three-part adventure: Hokkaidō → Osaka → Tokyo, with our friends Sean and Kaleigh and Chris and Ana. After a long flight from San Diego to Narita, we squeezed in a quick overnight at the Richmond Hotel.

The next morning, we flew Narita to Sapporo on Peach Airlines and took the Hokkaidō Resort Liner bus to Hilton Niseko Village.

By the time we finally checked into the hotel the jet lag didn’t stand a chance against that first blast of icy mountain air. We were officially in winter-wonderland mode and ready to dive into our Hokkaidō chapter.

Hirafu Village

Getting around Hirafu Village was a breeze with the local buses, which made it easy to explore all the hidden gems the area has to offer. One of our favorites? Bar Gyu, a cozy retro speakeasy tucked into a snowbank. Bar Gyu is full of charm and creative cocktails. Known as the “Fridge Door Bar,” it’s part secret hideaway, part post-ski sanctuary, and entirely unforgettable.

Comfort Food Heaven 🍲

At the bottom of Hirafu Slope, just as the chill hits your cheeks, you’ll spot a cluster of food trucks dishing out some seriously satisfying eats. Keep an eye out for the Hokkaido Food Truck Yard sign—it’s your golden ticket to comfort food heaven. From steaming bowls of ramen to perfectly crispy karaage, it’s the ideal pit stop after a few solid runs. Grab a bite, huddle up, and soak up that unbeatable après-ski energy.

Baring It All: Onsen Bliss

There’s something utterly liberating about stepping into an onsen for the first time, a quintessentially Japanese experience. Baring it all in the steaming hot spring waters, surrounded by snow-dusted pine trees and crisp mountain air, is surprisingly freeing. Every muscle unwinds, every worry melts away, and for a few blissful moments, you feel completely, gloriously present. If you need a reason to book a stay at the Hilton Niseko Village, trust me—this is it.

Niseko’s Sweetest Surprise

We made a stop at Niseko Takahashi Dairy Farm, and it’s every bit the treat you hope a snowy dairy farm visit will be. Their claim to fame? A custard-packed cream puff that’s as dreamy as it sounds—golden, delicate, and filled with silky-smooth custard that oozes with each bite.

Of course, we couldn’t skip the Hokkaido milk soft serve—rich, velvety, and somehow even more magical when eaten in the cold. (Seriously, it’s a must.) Everything is freshly made, and you can taste the quality in every bite.

But the real surprise hit for us? Niseko Milk Kobo Cheese Tarts! Crisp, buttery shells give way to a warm, fluffy cheese mousse that’s somehow light and rich at the same time. Absolute heaven—and, yes, we went back for seconds.

Lunar New Year Magic

We fell in love with Sankaitei, an authentic Chinese restaurant tucked up on Hirafu Hill, so much so, we ate there twice! Cozy and welcoming, it was the kind of spot that instantly made you feel at home, especially after a chilly day on the slopes.

We happened to visit during Lunar New Year, which made the experience feel even more festive. The energy was warm, the food was incredible, and the timing felt serendipitous—like we’d stumbled into a celebration we didn’t even know we needed.

Your Après-Ski Pizza Fix ❄️🍕

Another place we frequented in Niseko Village was Baby Crosta—a tiny pizza spot with hand-stretched dough, perfectly crunchy crusts, and inventive toppings that hit the spot after a day on the mountain. It had that warm, tucked-away feel. We popped in more than once and every time was just as good as the last. If you’re craving something cozy, carby, and crafted with care—this is your place.

We spent a full week in this wonderland, with the boys chasing fresh powder on the slopes while the girls perfected the art of doing absolutely nothing! 👏 By the end, everyone got exactly what they came for—thrills for the boys, chill for the girls, and a week we wished we could hit “repeat” on.

Where we stayed

Trip highlights

  • Outdoor Onsen — baring it all in the steaming hot springs, surrounded by snowy pines

  • Hirafu Village — the main ski village in Niseko, located at the base of Mount Niseko Annupuri.

  • Bar Gyu — retro speakeasy vibes, inventive cocktails, and the coziest atmosphere after a snowy day.

  • Hokkaido Food Truck Yard (Hirafu Slope Base) — ramen, karaage, and all the warm, comforting bites you crave

  • Baby Crosta — delicious pizza - need I say more?

  • Sankaitei — our favorite dinner in Niseko (twice!). Warm, welcoming, and extra festive during Lunar New Year.

  • Ezo Pub - Après-ski pub for beer and bites

  • Niseko Takahashi Dairy Farm — home of the dreamiest cream puffs and those addictive cheese tarts

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The Hardest Goodbye