Dutch Detour
A few weeks roaming the savannas of Tanzania left us nowhere near ready to call it quits, and since our route home took us through Amsterdam anyway, we figured… why not stretch the adventure just a little longer?
Neither of us had been to the Netherlands before, and a little research quickly revealed what makes it such an easy place to explore — everything is close and connected. We chose three home bases for the week, giving ourselves room to wander without spending half our days on trains:
3 nights in Haarlem with a day trip to Leiden
2 nights in Utrecht with a day trip to Rotterdam and Delft
3 nights in Amsterdam with a day trip back to Haarlem
Home Base No. 1 — Haarlem
Haarlem felt like the perfect first home base for us. Close enough to Amsterdam to make things easy, but with that smaller, cozier vibe we always gravitate toward. We loved the idea of easing into the Netherlands somewhere calm, walkable, and a little less hectic.
We landed at Schiphol around 10 p.m., grabbed Bus 300, and about 40 minutes later we were getting off at Haarlem Central. From there, it was just a short walk to Boutiquehotel STAATS, tucked away on a quiet residential street. The whole place had this warm, welcoming charm, the kind that instantly makes you feel like you’re staying at a friend’s home.
Good to Know- If you’re checking in late at night, give the front desk a heads-up. Their regular line shuts off after 11 p.m., and you’ll need their dedicated night number.
The next morning, we woke up to discover the storybook that is Haarlem. The hotel is located minutes from the Grote Markt in Haarlem, totally walkable. In fact, all of Haarlem is small enough to explore on foot, and full of hidden gems. Canals lined with bikes, arched bridges, and gardens spilling over sidewalks and wrought-iron fences. Every corner felt like it had its own little story. We spent our first day wandering aimlessly, soaking in the rhythm of local life. This was my favorite street.
We found our way to the historic square during their market. Wandering through it felt like stepping into a lively, colorful snapshot of the city with food lovers shopping for cheeses, homemade bread, and local farm produce. Our first taste of Haarlem was Empanadas Maxima, and it did not disappoint! I loved the Jamon Y Roque empanada.
Next, we did a little people-watching. Grand Café Brinkmann has a huge terrace facing the busy market square. You must try their beef carpaccio and the mushroom gravy pastry!
Huff and I have this little tradition where we pick up a deck of playing cards in every new city we visit and immediately challenge each other to a few rounds of Speed. We get very competitive. It’s a silly ritual, but it always makes a new place feel a bit more like home.
If you love booze with a view, Teds Haarlem is the kind of spot you’ll want to linger at. Tucked along the Spaarne Canal just outside Haarlem’s historic center, it was so good we went back twice. The interior is fun and cozy, but the sunny terrace overlooking the water steals the show. Don’t skip the waffle fries and a Bloody Mary—trust me.
We walked off the waffle fries with a visit to Molen de Adriaan, the windmill by the Spaarne that’s been shaping Haarlem’s skyline for centuries.
That evening, we were ready to dive deeper into Haarlem’s food scene. Table 24 sits just behind the iconic Grote Kerk on Oude Groenmarkt, and their heated outdoor terrace stays open until 1 a.m.—perfect for a late-night bite.
If you go, order the Boneless Iberico Ribs. I didn’t even get a photo before we inhaled them, but trust me, they’re worth it.
And don’t miss a little local tradition while you’re there: from 9 to 9:30 p.m., the church bells ring out—a nod to the old days when they signaled the closing of the city gates. It gives the whole square this cinematic, old-world feel.
If you’re looking for breakfast, visit La Maru Coffee. I had the chai latte and salmon with capers, cream cheese, pickled onions, and lemon. I’m not a “breakfast for breakfast” person—I love lunch or dinner foods in the morning, anything savory. This totally hit the spot.
We also enjoyed Ax Specialty Café.
If you love croissants, try Oscar Bakery. I think Huff had pistachio…. I had ham and cheese. He always goes for sweets. I always go for savory.
Around the corner from Table 24 is Restaurant Dané where you can dine with a gorgeous view of the grand St. Bavo Church towering above the square. It’s one of those settings that feels both lively and intimate at the same time. Huff went all in with the shredded duck topped with sliced wagyu and Iberico. Not a single bite was left behind.
Leiden
After a few days in Haarlem, we were ready to explore some more. We caught a train to Leiden, a peaceful university town that slows down beautifully at the end of August when the students clear out. Home to Leiden University, the oldest in the Netherlands, and 13 museums—all within walking distance—it’s a treasure trove for anyone drawn to art, history, and discovery.
Steeped in history, yet refreshingly unhurried, the city is undeniably charming. It’s easy to get lost in its blend of windmills, cobbled lanes, and water-laced streets, where centuries-old architecture meets the rhythm of everyday Dutch life.
Our first stop was Vlot Grand Café, a wonderful spot right on the canal in Leiden and just a short stroll from the train station. Their karaage chicken is as delicious as the view!
Next, we made our way to the Rijksmuseum van Oudheden, Leiden’s National Museum of Antiquities. Packed with archaeological treasures and ancient stories, it was the perfect stop for Huff, whose love of history knows no bounds.
Coffee is our little ritual wherever we travel. 30ML Coffee Roasters makes an incredible flat white and an iced lavender latte that tastes like summer in a cup. Bonus: make sure you try their macaroons!
Leiden Castle, locally known as the Burcht van Leiden, lies in the center of the city of Leiden, and is one of the oldest surviving castles in the Netherlands. Climb the winding steps to the top and you’re rewarded with sweeping views of Leiden — rooftops, church spires, and that classic Dutch charm in every direction.
I love it when a random find turns into an instant favorite. On our way back to the train station, we stumbled into Paco Ciao, and honestly… it’s a whole vibe. This hidden speakeasy sits behind a wardrobe door and is full of surprises. Think sun-soaked conservatory overflowing with plants, gallery walls, cozy corners, and yes—a disco bathroom. The vibes and the playlist are just as good as the food. So good, in fact, we ended up coming back more than once.
We cracked up when we saw the menu — a little inside joke for us since we once dressed up as Macho Man and Jake the Snake for our friends’ party. Unexpected nostalgia with our brunch. Let’s just say… some of our friends still haven’t recovered from that visual!
Home Base No. 2 — Utrecht
Utrecht became our second home base after Haarlem. After an easy train ride, we dropped our bags at the Crowne Plaza Utrecht, located at Hoog Catharijne, a shopping center located at the heart of Utrecht, connecting the historic city centre with Utrecht Centraal, Utrecht's main railway station.
Utrecht became our second home base after Haarlem. After an easy train ride, we dropped our bags at the Crowne Plaza Utrecht tucked inside Hoog Catharijne, the bustling shopping center that links Utrecht’s historic city center with its main railway station, and set out in search of something delicious.
Enter Amelia Osteria — home to the dreamiest burrata salad (honey, peach, strawberry, arugula, parmesan) and a mortadella pizza with pistachio pesto that I’m still thinking about. It sits along The Oudegracht, or "old canal", runs through the center of Utrecht.
Later, we walked over to Café DeRat, a cozy local spot with a friendly bartender, a cat in the window, and the kind of laid-back energy that makes you want to stay awhile.
While we were there, we met Archie, a local who quickly took us under his wing. He started scribbling recommendations on a napkin — though it quickly became clear a napkin wasn’t nearly enough. Before we knew it, he had essentially become our impromptu tour guide, giving us the lowdown on all things Utrecht.
Following his tips, we made our way to Orloff aan de kade , then a nearby wine bar after that, and it was one of those serendipitous travel nights that remind you why it’s so fun to go without a plan.
On the way, Archie told us about De Letters van Utrecht, an ongoing poem carved into the city’s cobblestones. One character is carved per stone, one stone per week, every Saturday between 1 and 2 p.m. Words take months to form, sentences take years, and the poem will continue to grow as long as people support it — a living, growing work of art connecting generations through words and time.
Rotterdam
The next morning, we took a day trip from Utrecht to Rotterdam, a city that feels bold and modern, with striking architecture and a completely different energy from anywhere else we visited in the Netherlands.
One of our first stops was Markthal, a massive indoor market packed with food stalls and bright, colorful art sweeping across the ceiling. We grabbed a stroopwafel on the way over and wandered deeper in, straight toward even more food.
In the heart of Rotterdam, between Station Blaak and the Markthal, you’ll find the city’s famous Cube Houses — bright yellow, tilted cubes designed by Piet Blom. They were wild to see up close — like architectural origami! After, we hopped back on the train and drifted toward Delft.
Delft
Just a short train ride from Rotterdam, we arrived in Delft, a picturesque city known for its rich history, iconic Delft blue pottery, and alluring canals. Even the train station is a sight in itself, with its blue tile accents and unmistakable allure. We only had an afternoon to explore, so we knew we wouldn’t be able to dive in fully — especially with the weather looking iffy.
True to its Dutch roots, Delft is woven with canals. One of the best ways to take it all in is just strolling along them, admiring the historic buildings, and soaking up the relaxed, picturesque vibe of the city.
By the time we reached the historic center, it started pouring! We waited out the rain at De Waag with some bitterballen and a game of Speed.
Once the rain let up, we wandered over to Oostpoort, Delft’s medieval Eastern Gate. With its twin Gothic towers and a small “water gate” spanning the canal, it feels a little like a miniature castle. It’s the only one of the city’s original nine gates to survive the great fire of 1536 — a quiet, atmospheric spot that made for a perfect ending to our short afternoon in Delft.
Oops we’re in Leiden again
We tried to get to The Hague next, but accidentally missed our stop and ended up back in Leiden. Honestly? No regrets. We revisited Paco Ciao for drinks and hot bread before heading back to Utrecht for dinner.
We headed back to Utrecht just in time for our dinner reservation at Don Kontsouke, a Japanese spot that had been on our list. It was exactly the kind of meal that makes a day of exploring feel complete, and of course we were so hungry we didn’t get any photos! Full and satisfied, we strolled back to Crowne Plaza Utrecht and packed our bags for Amsterdam.
Home Base No. 3 — Amsterdam
We intentionally saved Amsterdam for last. Partly, we wanted to ease into the Netherlands slowly, starting with smaller, quieter cities like Haarlem. But it was also practical — with our flight departing from Schiphol, ending in Amsterdam meant we could enjoy the city without worrying about a long transfer to the airport. It felt like the perfect way to wrap up our trip.
For our final stay, we checked into INK Hotel, a stylish boutique spot right in the heart of the city that immediately set the tone for our Amsterdam experience. Thanks to its prime location, INK Hotel makes an ideal base for exploring the city. You’re within walking distance of the Nine Streets, Kalverstraat, and the Jordaan, with a tram stop right outside for easy access to spots like the Rijksmuseum.
From there, we headed out for lunch at Bhatti Pasal, a Nepalese restaurant that hit the spot! This cozy little gem is small and intimate — the kind of place that feels like a local secret — and the food is bursting with bold, warming flavors.
Later, we ducked into Café ’t Smalle, a cozy canalside pub in Amsterdam’s Jordaan district, to wait out a quick rain shower. It’s full of old-world charm with wood-paneled walls and brass vintage accents.
Later, we stumbled upon Kaasbar, our first “cheese bar” experience. It’s basically heaven if you love cheese — which we do. They feature a variety of Dutch cheeses from small local producers complete with cheese pairings and flavor compositions, like Camembert goat cheese with coffee-bacon marmalade. It was so good we actually went twice.
The first time, we stuck to the cheese pairings; the second time, we couldn’t resist going back for the truffle fondue — rich, melty, and absolutely worth the return trip. Honestly, if we’d had one more day in Amsterdam, we probably would’ve gone a third time. Maybe next time we’ll sit at the bar and experience the cheese train.
We capped the night with a stroll through the Red Light District and a nightcap at Belly of the Beast, a cocktail bar that fully leans into the art of escapism. The space takes you into a darker, moodier world under the sea. And the drinks play right along with cocktails named after sea creatures. I didn’t get any good photos that night, but here’s a peek inside.
The next morning brought brunch at Bakers & Roasters, a Kiwi-Brazilian café that knows how to do comfort food right. I ordered the Cubano Sandwich — a grilled brioche bun stacked with slow-roasted pork, shaved ham, melted cheese, pickles, mustard, and mayo, served with a crisp cabbage slaw. Absolute heaven. I don’t think the Cubano is a permanent fixture—they seem to bring it back for a while and then retire it. Lucky me, I caught it just in time.
Tip: If you’re planning on eating here, you can add yourself to their virtual waitlist on your way over.
We walked off brunch at the Moco Museum.
Dessert was next! We were on a mission to try Rudi’s Original Stroopwafels at the Albert Cuyp Markt after watching Somebody Feed Phil’s Amsterdam episode. And honestly? These stroopwafels were everything.
We’d tried some in Rotterdam earlier in the trip that were way too sweet—like, one bite and you’re done—but Rudi’s nailed that perfect balance. Warm off the press, the caramel center just the right kind of gooey, the waffle thin and chewy in the best way… Totally worth the detour, the line, and the sticky fingers afterward.
We wrapped up the day with dinner at Takumi Tonkotsu Ramen, Amsterdam Centraal. Their ramen is incredible—aromatic, deeply flavorful, and comforting like a warm hug in a bowl.
Back to Haarlem
Before wrapping up our Netherlands trip, we knew we wanted to visit Haarlem one more time. This round, we hopped on the train from Amsterdam—only to realize halfway there that a Formula 1 event was happening! The trains were packed, but it somehow made the trip feel even more like an adventure, and we were still excited to squeeze in a little more of Haarlem before heading home.
We revisited some of our faves, Ax Specialty Café and Oscar Bakery, and soaked in all that Haarlem charm!
We went back to Dané for a bite to eat and then caught a train back to Amsterdam.
We spent our last night wandering through Rembrandtplein—one of Amsterdam’s busiest, buzziest squares—and paused to check out Joseph Klibansky’s bronze sculpture The Thinker.
And that’s a wrap! The Netherlands totally won us over. Each city had its own vibe, and our week turned into a happy blur of trains, canals, good food, and genuinely lovely people.
Somewhere between the church bells in Haarlem and the lavender lattes in Leiden, I realized we’d barely scratched the surface. We definitely didn’t cover enough this trip, but that was kind of the point — a way to dip our toes in, get a feel for each place, and figure out where we’ll want to linger longer next time. We’ll definitely be back for more.
Where we stayed
Haarlem — Boutiquehotel STAATS — tucked on a quiet residential street just a few minutes from Haarlem Central.
Utrecht — Crowne Plaza Utrecht - Central Station by IHG– Central Station — modern, comfortable, and directly connected to the station.
Amsterdam — INK Hotel Amsterdam – MGallery — stylish accommodations, very central. Only a 9-minute walk to Amsterdam Centraal, a 15-minute walk to The Jordaan district.
Trip highlights
Haarlem
Empanadas Maxima — perfect savory grab-and-go. (map)
Grand Café Brinkmann — classic café vibes on the Grote Markt. (map)
La Maru Coffee — amazing chai latter and salmon toast. (map)
Oscar Bakery — outstanding pastries and coffee. (map)
Table 24 — casual, delicious dinner spot. (map)
Dané — beautifully plated seasonal dishes with a view of St. Bavo Church (map)
AX Specialty Café — amazing coffee spot for a slow morning. (map)
Teds Haarlem — good eats with canal views. (map)
Molen de Adriaan — windmill that stands on the east bank of the River Spaarne. (map)
Leiden
Vlot Grand Café — a cozy spot to feast on kaarage chicken right on the water. (map)
30ML Coffee Roasters — lovely drinks and macaroons. (map)
Paco Ciao — hidden speakeasy, full of surprises. (map)
Rijksmuseum van Oudheden — museum of antiquities. (map)
Burcht van Leiden — hilltop castle with panoramic views. (map)
Utrecht
Emilia Osteria — most gorgeous Italian spot in a wharf cellar on the Oudegracht canal (map)
Café DeRat — old-school pub with local charm. (map)
Orloff aan de Kade — a lovely spot for happy hour (map)
Don Kounosuke — authentic Japanese food. (map)
Rotterdam
Markthal — massive indoor market with food stalls and colorful overhead art. (map)
Cube Houses — iconic yellow architecture worth a stroll and photos. (map)
Delft
De Waag — a charming setting and an extensive drinks and snacks menu. (map)
Oostpoort — One of the great architectural works to see in Delft. (map)
Amsterdam
Bhatti Pasal — incredible Nepalese cuisine. (map)
Café ’t Smalle — Traditional pub in the picturesque Jordaan district. (map)
Bakers & Roasters — bright, cozy café with amazing brunch. (map)
Moco Museum — contemporary, immersive, and digital art experiences. (map)
Rudi’s Original Stroopwafels — the best stroopwafels! (map)
Albert Cuyp Markt — bustling street market full. (map)
Kaasbar — conveyor belt–style cheese bar (yes, it’s as fun as it sounds). (map)
Takumi Tonkotsu Ramen and Sushi — amazing black garlic ramen (map)
Belly of the Beast — a cocktailbar, located in the heart of Amsterdam. (map)
Joseph Klibansky’s iconic sculpture “The Thinker” — Rembrandtplein (map)