Tokyo: So Much to See, So Little Time

Travel
Written By Marissa Huffman

From snowy Hokkaidō and its steaming hot springs to neon-lit Osaka and serene temples in Kyoto and Nara, it was time for part three of our Japan trip—Tokyo.

We hopped the Shinkansen Express from Shin-Ōsaka Station and arrived ready for a new adventure. After checking into Shibuya Stream Hotel near Shibuya Station, we dropped our bags and plunged straight into the city.

First Up: The Shibuya Scramble

Tokyo doesn’t do anything halfway—especially when it comes to pedestrian crossings. Instead of footbridges or elevated walkways, everything unfolds right at street level in a kind of organized chaos that somehow just works.

At its busiest, an estimated 1,000 to 3,000 people cross on an average signal change. And yet, despite the scale, it feels almost choreographed. It’s sensory overload in the best way, and standing there in the middle of it all, you can’t help but feel like you’re part of Tokyo’s heartbeat.

TIP: If you want to escape the crowds but still take in the famous Shibuya Crossing, a rooftop bar is the way to go.Mag’s Park Rooftop, perched atop MAGNET by SHIBUYA109 has one of the best views—especially at sunset when the neon lights start to glow. Your ticket includes a free drink. 🎟️🍻

A Long-Awaited Bucket List Stop: Hachikō Statue

Just outside Shibuya Station, we stood next to the Hachikō Statue—something I’d dreamed of for years. Hachikō was an Akita who waited faithfully at the station every day for his owner, Hidesaburō Ueno. Even after Ueno passed away in 1925, Hachikō returned every afternoon for nearly ten years. His loyalty captured the hearts of Tokyo, and in 1934, a bronze statue was unveiled in his honor. Today it’s a beloved symbol of unconditional love.

I’ve built my life around loving and caring for dogs, and for good reason. People can be complicated—I’ve been let down more times than I can count by people I thought were loyal—but dogs love fiercely, stay devoted, and ask for nothing in return. Hachikō’s statue was a quiet reminder of that unwavering love.

If you haven’t yet, go watch Hachi: A Dog’s Tale—it really shows the depth of Hachikō’s devotion. It hits all the feel-good notes. 🥹

Bullet Train Sushi in Shibuya

Of course, the first thing we do whenever we go to a new city is look for food—and this felt like the perfect, very Tokyo way to start. We made our way to Uobei in the bustling Dogenzaka area of Shibuya, a high-tech twist on conveyor belt sushi. But instead of grabbing plates as they pass by, you order everything from a touchscreen at your seat—and within seconds, your sushi comes flying out to you on a mini “bullet train.”

The vibe is fast, a little chaotic, and a lot of fun—especially during peak hours. Sushi zooms out of the kitchen in seconds, stopping perfectly in front of you with a little doorbell sound. It’s efficient, interactive, and surprisingly good quality for how quick and affordable it is—one of those experiences that feels just as memorable as the food itself.

Good to know: it’s super affordable, great for a casual meal, and there’s often a line—but it moves quickly. Perfect first stop when you land and just want to dive straight into Tokyo’s food scene.

Drunkard’s Alley (Nonbei Yokocho)

Tucked just steps from Shibuya Crossing, Nonbei Yokocho (“Drunkard’s Alley”) is a narrow, lantern-lit passage that feels like a portal to post‑war Tokyo. Tiny wooden izakayas and sake bars seat just a handful of people, creating an experience that’s equal parts cozy and communal.

We loved chatting with the owners and meeting fellow travelers—conversations come easily here, especially when you’re all tucked shoulder-to-shoulder. In such tight quarters, things get cozy fast, but that’s part of the charm. It’s an intimate, authentic alternative to the city’s flashier nightlife, and one of those places where you come for a drink and stay for the atmosphere.

What to Expect: Cozy bars, yakitori and small plates, plenty of sake, shochu, or beer. Most are cash-only and very small, so be ready for close quarters and friendly conversation.

Getting There: From Shibuya Station’s Hachikō Exit, it’s a 3-minute walk — follow the red lanterns tucked under a bridge.

Favorite Drunkard’s Alley Stops:

📍 Appre — Small indie Japanese whisky + sake bar. Bartender was awesome, super laid-back spot. Come for the drinks, stay for the bad bitch playlist. 😂

📍 Nagomi — Where the food is great and the vibe feels like sitting in someone’s kitchen. Nagomi completely stole my heart! It’s this tiny little izakaya that only seats six, so it feels super cozy, and the owner is just the sweetest.

Breakfast in Shibuya: Green Thumb & White Glass Coffee

I saw a reel recently—husbands fetching coffee for their wives on vacation… basically today’s version of leaving the cave, hunting something down, and triumphantly dragging it home for the family feast. Only now, instead of spears, it’s espresso machines and flaky croissants.

Acts of service is Huff’s love language. Mine is coffee (or any food, really)—which explains why one of his favorite travel rituals is hunting down local bakeries and coffee shops. Sometimes I tag along for the adventure, other times he braves it solo. This time? We turned it into a full-on little breakfast date. Our first stop was Green Thumb, a delightful bakery tucked in the heart of Shibuya. The pastries are incredible—flaky, buttery, and impossible to resist—and the breads are the kind you’d happily hoard in your bag for later. I did! A couple of benches outside make it perfect for sitting and people-watching while savoring your haul.

Just a few steps to the left is White Glass Coffee, a cozy oasis with a wooden outdoor patio tucked among greenery. Inside, sunlight streams through huge windows onto clean wood accents, giving it a bright, airy vibe. It’s packed, of course—because everywhere that serves good coffee in Tokyo is—but somehow it still feels like your little hideaway in the middle of the city. Between the pastries, the coffee, and the company, it was the perfect way to start our morning in Shibuya.

CAPPINESS Shinjuku Capybara Cafe

Tucked away in Tokyo’s Shinjuku, Cappiness is a charming little spot that feels delightfully offbeat—very “only in Tokyo.” You come for the novelty, but leave feeling oddly calm… and maybe a little obsessed with capybaras.

After checking in, we were introduced to three of the café’s residents. There’s something quietly hilarious and endearing about them just… existing. No rush, no chaos—just vibing. At one point, one of them let out a soft little chirp and stretched out beside us, completely unbothered—it somehow set the tone for the entire experience.

Capybaras may be the largest rodents in the world, but in person, they’re incredibly gentle. Their fur feels almost like a coconut shell, and their personalities match—calm, curious, and subtly playful.

What to Expect: Reservations are required, and the experience is thoughtfully designed and refreshingly low-key. After check-in, you’re simply invited to spend time with the capybaras—no rigid structure, no pressure. The staff is also great about giving each group time to take photos, so you never feel rushed. Just a calm, intimate space to slow down and be present.

Why It’s Worth It: Equal parts novelty and calm, Cappiness lives up to the hype. It’s also clear the animals are well cared for—something that, for me, made the experience feel even better.

Imperial Palace East National Gardens

Tucked into the heart of Tokyo, the East Gardens of the Imperial Palace offer a peaceful escape from the city’s constant buzz. Once part of Edo Castle, the space blends open lawns, stone ruins, and seasonal greenery into a calm, unhurried experience. It’s the perfect place to slow down, wander, and take in a quieter side of Tokyo.

Tokyo Tower: Thrills with a Side of Sunset

Standing tall above the city, Tokyo Tower is one of those landmarks you have to see at least once. Inspired by the Eiffel Tower but painted bright red and white, it somehow feels both nostalgic and totally Tokyo.

The views did not disappoint. The city stretches out in every direction, and sunset is when it really hits—lights starting to glow, the skyline shimmering. Tokyo Tower’s famous Skywalk Windows are a must-try. Step onto the glass floors, look straight down 145 meters (476 feet), and suddenly the whole city is beneath your feet. It’s wild, thrilling, and a little surreal—you can feel it in your bones. For a few seconds, you’re literally floating over Tokyo, and it’s kind of addictive.

We stayed for a while, grabbed some beers, and just soaked it all in. There’s something about seeing the city from up here that makes it feel enormous, alive, and a little magical.

From Slurps to Sips: Tokyo Favorites

⭐️ Ginza Lion Beer Hall — Tokyo’s Oldest Beer Hall

Of course, no trip with our travel crew would be complete without a beer hall, and Ginza Lion, Tokyo’s oldest, did not disappoint. Built in 1934, this place feels more German than Japanese—dark wood interiors, long communal tables, and hearty pours that practically beg for a cheers. Stepping inside is like being transported to a cozy European pub right in the heart of Ginza.

⭐️ The Late-Night Sandwich You Didn’t Know You Needed

If you find yourself wandering Tokyo after hours (which you inevitably will), this is the move. Tucked into the glowy, upscale streets of Ginza, Ginza Sand serves up perfectly crisp, melt-in-your-mouth katsu sandos that somehow taste even better late at night. It’s one of those tiny, blink-and-you-miss-it spots—but that’s part of the charm.

Huff is so good about finding delicious places around the world to visit—he saves them all ahead of time, and somehow always knows exactly where to go when we’re hungry. This was one of his finds, and it did not disappoint!

I ordered the Special Domestic Beef Filet Cutlet Sandwich and the Shrimp Cutlet Sandwich, and both were incredible. The beef was perfectly cooked with a rich, luxurious demi-glace, and the shrimp was crunchy, plump, and perfectly balanced with their house sauces. Every bite felt made with care—I could have gone back for seconds. Next time we’re in Japan, we’re definitely returning.

Good to Know: It’s cash-only, and (at the time of writing) open from 5:00 PM – 4:00 AM—perfect for a late-night stop after dinner, drinks, or a night out in the city. Simple, indulgent, and totally satisfying.

⭐️ Hands-On Yakiniku (Bring Friends, Come Hungry)

Just steps from Shibuya Station, this yakiniku spot focuses on high‑quality domestic wagyu. Visit Kobe Grilled Meat Kanteki Shibuya if you enjoy a hands‑on experience—choosing cuts, grilling them yourself, and lingering over shared plates with drinks.

The staff is friendly and helpful, which makes navigating the different meats feel easy even if it’s your first time trying yakiniku. Overall, it’s relaxed but delicious, making it perfect for a night out with friends when you want something more interactive than a traditional sit‑down dinner.

Good to Know: It’s open late (usually into the early morning), reservations are recommended, and it’s a great pick after exploring Shibuya’s nightlife.

⭐️ Slurp-Worthy and Seriously Good

Ramen × Wagyu. Need I say more? Jikasei Mensho takes ramen to another level—rich, deeply layered broths, toppings that feel elevated without losing that comforting, slurpable quality you want from a great bowl. The flavor was unreal—creamy and balanced without being too heavy. Every bite was satisfying, comforting, and just a little indulgent. This is the kind of place where you finish every last drop and immediately start thinking about when you can go back.

Good to know: Ordering is done at your own pace via a table-top touchscreen, and self-checkout makes paying easy. It’s thoughtful, modern, and lets you enjoy every moment of your meal without rush.

⭐️ Tokyo’s Snack Treasure Troves

Forget what you know about corner stores—Japan’s convenience stores are culinary playgrounds, packed with snacks, sweets, and little surprises at every turn. We found ourselves popping into 7-Eleven and Lawson constantly—for snacks, quick breakfasts, and late-night treats.

Standouts? 7-Eleven’s pancakes with maple syrup & margarine were shockingly good—soft, fluffy, and perfectly sweet. Lawson holds its own too, with fried chicken and seasonal treats that make every visit feel like a tiny treasure hunt. These stores may be small, but they’re packed with flavor and personality.

Good to know: They’re literally everywhere, always spotless, and somehow… everything just tastes better. Japanese convenience stores aren’t just convenient—they’re a little slice of Tokyo life.

A Full-Circle Moment in Tokyo

Trips are made up of meals and moments—but this one ended with something so much more meaningful. After 20+ years, I reunited with my friend Maki in Tokyo. We originally met dancing together on the Gulls Girls for San Diego Gulls Ice Hockey back in the early 2000s, and somehow, all this time later, found ourselves together again on the other side of the world.

It’s hard to put into words what that kind of reunion feels like. Time folds in on itself a little—you pick up right where you left off, but with so much more life lived in between.

Tokyo Recap & Favorite Stops

Tokyo is the kind of city you could visit over and over and still feel like you’ve only scratched the surface. If you’re planning your own Tokyo itinerary, here’s a quick roundup of some of our favorite spots from the trip—everything we’d go back to in a heartbeat:

Marissa Huffman https://marissahuffman.com
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