New Zealand to Australia by Sea: Our First Azamara Cruise

The gift of travel

Aunt Nancy has a knack for grand gestures, the kind that arrive quietly, then reveal themselves in full brilliance. A year ago, she floated the idea of taking us on trips around the world—we smiled, not yet knowing it was already in motion. Long before we packed a bag, she worked with her travel agent to orchestrate flights, a cruise around New Zealand and Australia, and a few carefully plotted surprises—an adventure mapped out while we went about our ordinary lives.

And then, almost seamlessly, the imagined became real. We left Encinitas in a stretch limo, palms silhouetted against a bright blue sky, suitcases packed for what I’d confidently labeled in my mind: summer at sea.

We flew business class on Air New Zealand—a gentle introduction to what would become a trip defined by unhurried elegance: flat beds, excellent wine, and the quiet thrill of crossing the Pacific while the rest of the world slept.

It was only our second trip not flying economy—the first was to Tanzania—so we knew just enough to anticipate the small luxuries: space waiting in the overhead bin, champagne at our seats, a crisp white tablecloth across the tray, and spacious pods that offered privacy. This kind of travel is quietly ruining us. I’m not entirely sure how anyone ever goes back. I’m pretty sure I’ll cry when that day comes.

By the time we landed in Auckland, it was clear we packed for the wrong hemisphere— aesthetically and meteorologically. It was January, yes. Summer over there, yes. But in this corner of the world, wind. Slate skies. Sudden rain. The kind of dramatic coastal weather that makes you reach for a trench coat, not a sundress. My carefully curated lineup of breezy whites and linen sets would stay mostly unworn in the closet while I rotated through sweaters and borrowed layers.

Our rooms weren’t ready at the JW Marriott Auckland, so we lingered in the lobby over Dirty Martinis, meeting and chatting with Aunt Nancy and Steve’s friends and letting the rain pour down around us.

Later, the true New Zealand welcome came at Occidental, Auckland's famous Belgian Beer Huis. A black pot of green-lipped mussels in lemongrass and coconut broth arrived steaming, shells enormous and impossibly green. We leaned over the table, steam rising between us, tearing bread and declaring them the best mussels we’d ever had. They would not be the last.

A Floating Boutique Hotel

The next afternoon, we boarded the Azamara Pursuit—our home for the next sixteen nights, and our very first cruise. We settled into Stateroom 6079, while Nancy and Steve made themselves at home in 7005—the largest suite onboard. With its spacious living room, it quickly became our go-to spot for late afternoons and evenings, eventually turning into our unofficial card-playing headquarters.

If you picture cruise ships as towering cities with water slides and neon lights, this was something entirely different. Pursuit feels more like a well-run European hotel that just happens to move.

Seven restaurants, cafés, and lounges. A refreshing pool, sun-drenched decks, a fitness center, a spa, several areas with entertainement.

Dining at Sea

Cruising teaches you the art of return—the quiet pleasure of revisiting what you already know you love. The food was exceptional, yes, but it was the rhythm that stayed with me. Within days, we knew the staff by name—and they knew ours, along with our room numbers, our preferences, our routines. It felt personal in a way I hadn’t expected.

Mornings began with cappuccinos from Mosaic Café, so consistent we ordered them even when seated elsewhere, followed by slow, unrushed breakfasts in Discoveries—perfectly cooked filets, breakfast potatoes, and an Energizer, a ginger and orange juice shot that quickly became habit.

We found ourselves moving between spaces without much thought. Windows Café surprised me with its ocean views and thoughtful service (and memorable kiwi and coconut gelato), while The Patio offered relaxed, poolside lunches when the weather cooperated. Evenings settled into their own rhythm at specialty restaurants—Prime C and Aqualina—with chateaubriand, handmade pastas, and soufflés worth lingering for.

Life On Board

Sea days were full—fitness classes, live music, trivia, and small gatherings—but the rhythm remained relaxed. There was always something to do, though it never felt overwhelming. Each day, a program arrived in our stateroom outlining classes, activities, and entertainment, offering a gentle structure to the day without ever demanding it.

We spent time in the fitness center, on the jogging track, in the Card Room, and at shows in the Cabaret Lounge. The Drawing Room and The Den offered quiet corners to retreat to. Our balcony brought stillness.

Signature Celebrations

Azamara also leaned into the regions we were sailing through, weaving in local flavors along the way. New Zealand green-lipped mussels made more than one appearance—each time a quiet reminder of where we were, even out at sea.

And then there was White Night—everyone dressed in white (some sporting plush bathrobes and cleverly repurposing white table napkins as headwear), lobster tails piled high, music drifting into the open air, and a heartfelt tribute to the crew, complete with flags from their home countries. It felt less like a cruise event and more like a seaside festival.

These are some of Steve and Nancy’s friends—aren’t they the cutest?!

The Sea Days

Out on the water, time stretches in a way that’s rare in ordinary life. An endless horizon, quiet afternoons where the ocean seems to breathe alongside you, and evenings when the sky dissolves into soft hues. It was in those quiet hours that I found space to process something heavier—losing my mom. It had only been a month since she passed.

Life on land keeps you busy—appointments, responsibilities, distractions—but at sea there is nowhere for grief to hide. And strangely, that felt like a gift. The ocean created space. Space to think. Space to remember. Space to let emotions rise and settle again like the tide.

The trip wasn’t just about beautiful harbors or elegant travel. It was about slowing down long enough to feel things fully. I talked to my mom. I cried heavily. I was angry and sad and vulnerable. I let out every emotion. The sea felt vast enough to hold it all.

Ports in Soft Focus

From morning mists in New Zealand to sun-drenched Australian shores, each port was a slow unfolding:

Auckland, New Zealand
Bay of Islands, New Zealand
Napier, New Zealand
Wellington, New Zealand
Nelson, New Zealand
Picton, New Zealand
Christchurch, New Zealand
Dunedin, New Zealand
Milford Sound, New Zealand
Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
Eden, Australia
Sydney, Australia

Our voyage traced the curve of New Zealand’s coast before turning west toward Australia. Ports appeared briefly, like punctuation marks along the journey—quiet harbors and coastal towns tucked into green hills along the open ocean. Even the shortest stops felt like a pause in time, a chance to breathe before the horizon stretched wide again.

Bay of Islands

We docked in Paihia in the Bay of Islands under steady rain. Michael and I wandered anyway, ducking into a Craft Bar & Kitchen for more mussels.

That evening we celebrated Kerry’s birthday onboard and he sang for us!

Napier: From Disaster to Art Deco

The next morning we woke up in Napier, where Art Deco facades gleamed under rare sunshine. You don't need a special tour to see the Art Deco, just walk around—you can't miss it.

We learned about the devastating earthquake that nearly destroyed Napier in 1931. When the city rebuilt, Art Deco was in fashion—and Napier embraced it fully. Today, its pastel facades and geometric lines stand as a beautiful testament to resilience.

Wellington: Culture on the Edge of the Sea

In Wellington, we warmed ourselves with lattes and a cheesy “scoffin” (a scone-muffin hybrid) at Sketchbook Coffee before exploring Te Papa, New Zealand's national museum, where we learned about Māori history and culture and experienced the Breathe, an exhibition featuring major digital artworks on an awe-inspiring scale from London-based collective Marshmallow Laser Feast (MLF).

After the exhibit we wandered the harbor and then went back to Sketchbook for one more Scoffin (Yes—they’re that good!)

Nelson

We glided into the Port of Nelson beneath bright blue skies and the watch of its lighthouses. From the harbor, the town unfolds gently—sunlit streets, leafy corners, and an easy pace that invites you to wander.

Our stop at Queens Gardens was pure calm—a circle of roses surrounding a cupid fountain, little bridges arching over quiet paths, and sculptures and memorials tucked gently among the greenery. You can wander, picnic, listen to the birds, or simply soak in the peaceful atmosphere. It’s the kind of place that makes you slow down and breathe.

Picton

Picton is a small port town at the top of New Zealand’s South Island, known as the gateway to the Marlborough Sounds. The views were stunning, and though we didn’t stay long, we strolled through the entire main area. Charming boutique shops and independent stores made it easy to wander.

Christchurch

The Christchurch Gondola offered spectacular panoramic views of the city, Lyttelton Harbour, the Pacific Ocean, and beyond—truly one of the best ways to take in Christchurch. On the ride up, we spotted sheep grazing on the hillside, a charming reminder that New Zealand has more sheep than people and that those rolling green hills really do come with their own woolly residents.

We wandered to the Bridge of Remembrance and strolled through the Botanic Gardens before ending the day with tapas and cocktails in the beautiful garden at the Curator’s House—the best mix of sightseeing and slow, sunny moments.

Dunedin

In Dunedin, we wandered past St. Paul’s Cathedral and through the Queen’s Garden until we reached the through the peaceful pathways of the Dunedin Chinese Garden.

Known as Lan Yuan, the garden was created with support from both the Dunedin City Council and Shanghai, Dunedin’s sister city. It’s considered the only authentic traditional Chinese scholar’s garden in the Southern Hemisphere, designed in the classical Jiangnan style and even prefabricated in Shanghai before being shipped to New Zealand and reconstructed by Chinese artisans.

The space is built around a tranquil central lake, with winding paths, pavilions, bridges, and carefully placed rocks meant to create the feeling of a traditional Chinese landscape painting.

After exploring the garden, we stopped at The Tart Tin for a sweet treat before visiting the Ocho Chocolate Factory, a small, bean-to-bar maker tucked quietly into the city.

Milford Sound

Cruising through the Milford Sound felt like entering another realm—a fjord hewn by ice and time, cliffs towering straight up from calm, dark waters. Waterfalls streamed down the faces of those ancient rock walls. I sat there in awe of its beauty— a quiet witness to something both vast and profoundly alive.

Hobart

We docked overnight in Hobart, giving us time to wander a little further afield. One morning, we visited Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary, where we experienced Tasmania’s native wildlife up close. Visitors can hand-feed kangaroos, and it was special to see Tasmanian devils, wombats, and other unique species in such an intimate setting. And for the record—the Tasmanian devil looks nothing like the cartoon. No spinning tornado, no chaos… just a small, surprisingly shy little creature.

Later, we made our way to Richmond for savory meat pies—simple, comforting, and somehow perfect after a morning outdoors.

Back in Hobart, the afternoon unfolded easily. We wandered through Salamanca, lingered longer than intended over espresso martinis, and eventually found ourselves tucked into a live music bar called The Den, where the night carried on with an unexpected kind of magic.

Azamara was amazing at sprinkling in surprises. One night in Hobart, they planned a night out at the Tasmanian Symphony Orchestra! It was such a treat!

Eden

In Eden, we devoured Vietnamese coffee and flaky croissants at Toast Café—simple, perfect, and somehow better by the sea.

Down at the southern end of Aslings Beach, we found a rock pool tucked beneath the cliffs. Quiet, a little hidden, and exactly the kind of place you don’t want to leave. We ended up hanging out with a local guy and his dog, because of course we did.

Sydney

And then, one morning, Sydney appeared—harbor glittering, Opera House gleaming. Sydney was our final stop, and it arrived all at once. The harbor opened wide around us, the city unfolding in every direction.

We saw it from every angle—cruising across the water, high above it from Sydney Tower, and from within the Opera House itself, walking through the iconic sails we had watched rise into view.

There were simpler moments, too: meeting friends for fish and chips at Felons and a walk at Manly Beach, the kind of afternoon that doesn’t need much else.

By the time we left, the skyline felt familiar. Not just something we had seen, but something we had moved through—by water, by foot, by memory.

First Cruise, Lasting Impression

Michael and I were easily the youngest passengers onboard—but you wouldn’t have known it from the company we kept. Steve and Nancy’s friends were all so fun! Sharp, active, witty, and a blast to be around. We met Annie and Andy from the UK, and even ran into a couple from San Diego who just happened to know a firefighter Huff works with. The world really does feel small at sea.

It was not the bikini-and-bronzer summer I had imagined. It was windblown and layered. Reflective. Unexpectedly healing. Cruising, I learned, isn’t about excess. At least not this kind. It’s about rhythm. About waking somewhere new without repacking. About long dinners and longer conversations. About watching land disappear and trusting the journey forward.

“Kia Ora,” the Māori phrase we heard often, is both hello and a wish for good health. It feels like the right way to end this trip report.

where we stayed

• 1 night at the JW Marriott Auckland

• 16 nights on the Azamara Pursuit

travel tips

Pack layers. More than you think you need.
Don’t let the idea of “summer” fool you—New Zealand, especially along the coast, can be windy, moody, and unexpectedly cold. I packed for sun and ended up living in sweaters and borrowed layers. By the time we reached Australia, it finally warmed up—but getting there required a wardrobe reset.

Plan less in port.
It’s tempting to over-schedule, but some of the best moments came from simply wandering—finding a café, a garden, or a quiet street with no agenda. Leave space for that.

Talk to people. It always leads somewhere.
Whether it was a café recommendation, a hidden spot, or just a good story, the small conversations—onshore and onboard—ended up being some of the most memorable parts of the trip.

A cruise is a preview, not the whole story.
You won’t have time to fully settle anywhere, but you will get a sense of what stays with you. A few places stood out immediately—Auckland, Wellington, Napier, Milford Sound, Hobart, and Sydney—and I’d go back to any of them in a heartbeat.

Lean into the rhythm of the ship.
Don’t try to do everything. The beauty of this kind of travel is the pace—long mornings, familiar faces, returning to places you like. Let that be the experience.

Book the small ship.
Azamara’s size made all the difference—more intimate, more personal, and able to access smaller ports that larger ships can’t. It changed how the entire trip felt.

trip highlights

Auckland, New Zealand
Dirty martinis at JW Marriott Auckland while the rain poured outside, followed by green-lipped mussels in coconut broth at The Occidental Belgian Beer Huis located on Auckland’s historic Vulcan Lane and is one of Auckland’s oldest buildings. This meal set the tone for the entire trip—Must try!

Bay of Islands, New Zealand
Rainy and low-key in Paihia, wandering anyway and ducking into a CBK Craft Bar & Kitchen for more mussels—proof that the plan doesn’t always need adjusting.

Napier, New Zealand
Art Deco facades lining the streets, a full city rebuilt after the 1931 earthquake and now one of the most visually distinct stops on the trip. Meat pie and beers on tap at The Rose Irish Pub—the friendliest little pub house in Napier!

Wellington, New Zealand
Scoffins and lattes at Sketchbook Coffee, followed by a morning at Te Papa and a walk along the harbor.

Nelson, New Zealand
A slow afternoon at Queens Gardens—roses, winding paths, and the kind of quiet that makes you linger, truffle fries and burgers at Culture, exploring Nelson Provincial Museum.

Picton, New Zealand
A small harbor town at the edge of the Marlborough Sounds—easy to wander, with just enough time to take it in.

Christchurch, New Zealand
Views from the Christchurch Gondola, sheep grazing below, and a delicious Spanish cuisine in the beautiful Christchurch Botanic Gardens at Curators House.

Dunedin, New Zealand
An afternoon at Lan Yuan Dunedin Chinese Garden, followed by The Tart Tin and Ocho Chocolate Factory.

Milford Sound, New Zealand
Cruising through the Milford Sound—towering cliffs, constant waterfalls, and that unmistakable feeling of being small in the presence of something vast and alive.

Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
Tasmanian devils, kangaroos and wombats at Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary, meat pies at Richmond Bakery, and a night that unfolded over espresso martinis at The Salamanca Whisky Bar and live music at The Den in Salamanca, followed by a live performance by the Tasmanian Symphony Orchestra.

Eden, Australia
Vietnamese coffee and flaky croissants at Toast Café, followed by a hidden rock pool at the southern end of Aslings Beach and an afternoon that stretched longer than planned.

Sydney, Australia
Harbor views from every angle—by ferry, from the Sydney Tower Eye, and inside the Sydney Opera House—plus coffee and pastries at The Grumpy Baker and fish and chips at Felons Brewing Co in Manly Wharf.